🌊🧠 The Ego Board Here in El Paredón, watching the waves roll in, a simple truth keeps showing itself. The shortboard. Sharp. Sleek. Hard to ride. Hard to master. Looks good under the arm, but spends a lot of time under water. Then there’s the longboard. Slower. Softer. More forgiving. More waves. More smiles. The happiest surfers in the lineup are almost always riding them. It made me think about life. How many of us are riding the ego board? Chasing shiny things. Status. Titles. Stuff. Workin
3:09
🌊🧠 The Ego Board Here in El Paredón, watching the waves roll in, a simple truth keeps showing itself. The shortboard. Sharp. Sleek. Hard to ride. Hard to master. Looks good under the arm, but spends a lot of time under water. Then there’s the longboard. Slower. Softer. More forgiving. More waves. More smiles. The happiest surfers in the lineup are almost always riding them. It made me think about life. How many of us are riding the ego board? Chasing shiny things. Status. Titles. Stuff. Workin
674 views3 months ago
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